Custom electronics and new wheel

Updated: Apr 17, 2019

So, i have a new wheel being shipped over, the Gotway Monster 2400wh. Its the new type with updated pcb and motor. Going forward, i will record my project of implementing new tech into the wheel, as well as strengthening it. What new tech? - Temperature guard and alarm - Turnsignals, breaklight and acceleration explosion. " all done with LED lights" - Fall/crash detection and alarm - Powerfull headlight on top as well as down low to cast long shadows - Automatic headlight that uses a photosensor. "light outside" - louder alarm so far i have made a working prototype for: - temperature guard - crash detection - turnsignals Endgoal: A Gotway Monster with all the tech listed above, as well as stronger shell that can survive a light fall. Plug and play system for all other Gotway MSX and Monster riders. Universal and with the option for updates to be installed. " still have to figure this out" I will start uploading videos once in a while during the development of this, First i make all the tech, then i strengthen the wheel and paint it. put the electronics back together and test it. Testing = errors and adjusting, once happy i will have to wait for the snow to melt and the spring to arrive. once im happy with it, i will make a few units for close friends and when everyone is happy, it will be produced for others.

31.12.2018 Thinking about perhaps molding my own sidepanel out of fibre and resin to allow for one more battery pack on each side of the Gotway Monster. Imagine having 4kwh battery. We are talking 350 km range if the speed is low and road flat. Normally they rate them 100km per 1kwh pack, so im being a bit conservative here.

Wheel is here wednesday, 2.1.2019, I will make a few videos to show the wheel in detail so we all have that to look back at, but also to show you what ive not found on my own. once those videos are out, i will upload 1 video per weekend, each week as i work on the projects. Electronics must be put together and mounted so i can work on programming it, once thats done i will move forward. It will be great! good content.


First content: Unpacking the wheel.

Bought directly from Gotway through a contact i have on private messages. Makes my life easier and i know i can trust him with my money. Now the plan is to make a video close up from both the outside to show details, as well as inside so i have something to look back at. Planned for 4.1.2019.

5.1.2019 I opened up the Sidepanel on the Gotway Monster and looked inside. Very clean, nice job Gotway! The bullet connectors are inside their own silicone sleeve and put on the side of the pcb, i expected them to be plugged into the motherboard as the gotway msx is, but no. I removed the small corner piece from the shell as i plan on modeling it and printing a new one that i can drill holes into. The reason for this is to have a usb port on the side to make it easy for me to update the firmware on my own electronics as i test it.

7.1.2019 Tried to combine the turnsignal cover with the temperature alarm code. Im having problems getting it correct as the whole thing slows down, perhaps too many "IF" statments... not sure. My solution will be to use 2 different arduino nanos. One for the turnsignal, and one for the temperature alarm. I will just buy a breadboard, connect everything and then 3d print a square where the arduino's should sit, connecting everything together. As this idea is formed, i will try and get the temperature alarm to work with the length of LED strip i want to use, once thats done, i will solder together a working prototype.

11.1.2019 I soldered the stepdown transformer and tested that with the diode-boards i plan on using as lights on the monster.

Diodes taped to the wheel for testing

Not only does it light up great with all turned "on", but if i just use bottom lights, i get a strong halo under me when i ride, makes city-traffic safer! If i only use bottom diods, drivers are not brinded. Im probably designing brackets for them and drilling a smal hole behind it to pass the cables. this means i must be 100% sure first, and im not there yet.

Tomorrow i plan on taking the monster apart and installing the LED strips on the sides and top, then, copy the layout with cables from the arduino i use to program with and solder connectors and cables to the arduino nano and mount that as well with a cable sticking out of the corner cap on the shell. Also, when i take it apart, i will take good photos and plan on how to strengthen it. the screwposts, motorpillar area on the shell and so on.

13.1.2019 I took the wheel apart and installed led strips, its a bit shabby and not really good, also they dont work, so something is wrong, somewhere.. anyway, next weekend im modeling something as shown below in clear PETG material for the strips to be inside. facing out.

18.1.2019 Took Monster apart once again and took photo of the inside of shell for modeling the LED strip holster.

All needed is a photo directly at front, scaled

Here is the model with a endcap.

19.1.2019 First print. A bit warped at one end, bad toplayer "need more" and parts too long.

Ends touch wheel. must be cut shorter.

Here is the first testprint. Next print will be correct. these where fast to make of only a few hours. Clear PETG diffused the light as expected. hides the sorce.

Same model, just cut in length

single outline walls. Forgot to centre endcap in photo.

opening at end for cables to connect strips in series.

Now these parts must be printed before i can do anything else. Can be installed today, as planned!

Later same day: Print failed as the filament sensor triggered.. bad part made from plastic that slowly wears away. I inserted small ptfe tube pieces to make it correct diameter again. also noticed the material was brittle and with blobs. changed settings in the slicer and made it only print 2 and 2 this time. just in case.

being just a single outline width, they are fast to make and diffuses the light just enough.

but as you see, not the best with blobs.

this is the sensor. simple switch. left side you see the tube, same on right side. did this on older printer, works good

Now i have to wait around 4 more hours for complete set of parts, but will check after 2, thats when the first batch is ready.

Updated model due to printing-problems. now thicker and beveled, easier to print gap on top

26.1.2019 Last weekend when i tried to install this, it failed. printed "hollow" tubes buildt too much and i had to shrink them down in length to make it work, if not it would touch the tire. This meant the lights started from the middle of the wheel and that didnt look quite right. I ended on cutting away parts of the shell"support" to push the leds into place around the shell. A bit of work and broken tools, but was able to do it. I somehow soldered it wrong or something, and didnt work. Im looking into that this weekend.

After hours of searching the webs and forums on why my strips dont work, i believe its because i connected the power in from the wrong end of the strips. i had no idea this was a thing, but hey.. most likely. now. lets see if its that simple.

Later the same day: As i tried to remove the old strip and switch it around, i damaged the silicone sleeve multiple places, it also no longer looks nice if installed. Trash.. everything put on hold until the wheel works with lights. have to order new strip and express shipping.

29.1.2019. Ordered new strip from amazon, paid 500 nok and got it on my door from USA 2 days after. Quite expensive, but perhaps not so much after all.. Looked very closely at the markings now. The "arrows" that point in the direction of the current and signal is what i messed up last time. not this time.. no way. As said, one way side done "batteryside", also finished the rest of the strip with connectors and cables, sealed the ends with silicone as caps for water and dirt. Now i have to wait for tomorrow before doing the rest. As i completly destroyd the old sleeve for the led with all the silicone i used, i only used a few drops this time. enough i believe. Will test once cured. This new LED strip have fewer leds as well, but still should make for smooth animations. Uses less power if anything. Still not 100% sure if gyro for turnsignals is the best option as it will probably give false readings and not work when standing in traffic, waiting on others in front. Well. Testing testing testing..

2.2.2019 Still not uploaded the video from the installation of leds, but i will.. Just had to get them working first. You can see the early demo shown below

9.2.2019 Added new features. -Turnsignals at front. Replaces bottom white leds. -Crash detection. Flashes all leds in bright "White" when wheel has fallen over to its side. Also sounds an alarm. -Added Gyro value on z axis so turnsignal doesnt activate while wheel is leaned against the wall. Possible new feature also added later: - Bottom white leds change to bright blue to light up the road infront when temperature outside is below 5Celsius. Warns the rider of icy roads. Would also have to blink often enough for the rider to notice. perhaps also use the alarm. Added later. 10 min job. Next up is temperature alarm changes and installation of both systems internally with extension cable to corner piece on case for easy update.


Added new features. - Button for easy switching of LED and light modes. Plan now is, Different LED modes and headlight in sidepads with easy toggle through button.

- Instead of manually selecting every time, mode 1 will be fully automatic with the help of a photo_sensor

Here's the modes i want to add

Daytime = LED lights at the bottom front only. Evening = LED lights at the front and bottom. Night = All LED lights. Blue at top front, rest white. back in RED. Night with no oncoming lights for a set time = Lights on in sidepads. When the light outside gets brighter or there is oncoming light, sidepad lights turn off again until its again dark, then a timer for a set amount of time and repeat. I am also adding the modes above as fixed modes incase it acts up or the lights outside are hard to code for.

18.2.2019 Added new features. - Automatic adjustment of LED strip depending on ambient light. Daytime = Bottom front LED. two on each side. Visible in bright sunshine. Evening = Bottom front and under LED. Spot under rider for safety. Night = As above, but also Blue top frontlights.

And the last that i wasnt able to figure out today. Complete nightmode = Automatic headlight. " Still working on this" Final version will have option for multiple lights, all controlled together. 23.2.2019 Today i moved the components from my arduino uno over to the much smaller Arduino nano. I soldered it into place in a hurry and tested it, all works, great! Now im going to 3d model a small box for it and install into my wheel by the end of the day, tomorrow im testing it in the basements to see if my settings needs to be adjusted.

Thought about how i would have done it if i where to make more, im going to design custom pcb so each component can be just pushed into place.

24.2.2019 Designed all the components i plan on using and a box for it. all to be installed into my wheel

Green plug left - micro usb extension cable that leads to the outside of wheel for easy firmware updates.

yellow xt60 connector. Main battery voltage in, 5v 3A out to drive led strip.

Top white connector - internal usb in. Power for arduino. this triggers a relay that opens for main power in.

bottom white connectors, from the left - light sensor - button - LED strip

"More to be added later for other functions" "Automatic headlight,handle LED, external lights"

Top button in green - press on startup to calibrate gyro level.

Components inside. Relay,speaker,button,transformer,gyro,arduino,xt60 and connectors.

Without components.

You can also see vents for cooling.

cover has cutout for speaker as well as text.

5.3.2019 The electronics box didnt fit as it should, i will wait with producing a new one, what i have done now tho is make a test-rig for easy testing going forward, all electronics are hooked up. Why no video lately? well, ive had problems getting the gyro-control working how i want it, the added functions over last time is also not enough and therfore a video isnt out yet. that being said, i do have a lot of video locally, but only when i have it working right will i put it together as a short montage before the final working version.

What i have atm. - Fully working LED lights with programmed functions selected with button.

- Automaticly adjusted depending on ambient light, "avg values added so sudden streetlights wont affect it"

- Fall-detection with blinking lights and alarm.

- Blue,pink and green headlights. selectable by user.

Current problems: adding gyro-filter to smooth out the values, prevents sudden bumps and spikes from triggering the turnsignal.

whether or not to use gyro for turnsignals or some type of pressure pad or button that is natural to use. One or the other, or both at once. possible to signal "out" of a turn, and not only into one.

connecting the temperature alarm to use with the led in handle area.

printing a new cap for the headlight at front.

This is being worked on daily by me, trying to figure it out.


What i have installed now is a step-down transformer directly into the wheels battery with a xt60 splitter. This drives the arduino nano and LED strips. Prev i used to drive this from the USB port internally, but ut couldnt delived enough current and some of the leds would show a slight offset color and less bright. Now instead the usb triggers a Relay, this takes very little current and ensures that the system doesnt work unless the wheel is also powered on. Tested for 4hours inside as a test, no heat generated to speak of while under max load. I hope to show a new video soon.

14.4.2019 after blowing up the first led in the strip and repairing it, i have since made a new arduino module thats mode compact and added a step-down transformer with 3amp output at 5v for the usb port on the wheel. Im also going over to waterproof it and the new temperature guard is working well and being installed as well.